Walpole, the British luxury industry trade body, has just announced the winners of its annual awards.
McLaren Automotive won the British brand category while Hermes scooped the award for International Luxury Brand. I’d agree with both these decisions – especially the latter, since Hermes never seems to put a foot wrong.
But it was the winner of the Emerging British Luxury Brand that surprised me. The choice of the judges who included Michael Ward, MD of Harrods, Caroline Rush, CEO of British Fashion Council and Sarah Burton, chief designer for Alexander McQueen have chosen Victoria Beckham.
I don’t want to rain on Mrs B’s parade and her luxury womenswear clearly has many fans but to me she is everything, well almost everything, anyway, that luxury just isn’t. First, she is a label, a brand – and slavish devotion to the label is something that the luxury sector has moved decisively away from over the last few years.
Second, she has no training as a designer. Luxury products are increasingly about skills and craftsmanship as consumers look for something that will last, that has an interesting provenance and that has a value that is more subtle than that ostentatious label.
Third, of course, is the issue of celebrity, which again the new, more understated luxury business is eschewing.
If her business creates jobs in the luxury sector and encourages new, young skill and talent then I’m pleased but really the luxury industry shouldn’t be choosing Victoria Beckham as an ambassador.
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